Key points
- Compare against a known genuine card from the same set wherever possible.
- Print dot pattern, card stock thickness and foil behaviour are the hardest things to fake.
- Always verify a slab's certificate number on the grader's own site.
- A price far below the market is the strongest warning sign of all.
Print quality under magnification
Genuine cards are printed commercially with a fine, regular rosette dot pattern. Counterfeits are frequently scanned and reprinted, which produces either a coarser dot pattern, visible pixelation at the edges of lettering, or a slightly blurred photograph.
A cheap jeweller's loupe is enough. Focus on small text on the back and on the sharp edges of logos, where reprint softness shows first.
Card stock and thickness
Card stock is a manufacturing property that is expensive to replicate. A fake often feels thinner, more flexible, or unusually glossy compared with a genuine card from the same set. Held edge-on, many modern cards show a distinctive layered core; a fake frequently shows a uniform white edge.
Foil, refractor and holographic behaviour
Chrome and refractor finishes produce a specific rainbow shift as the card tilts under light. Printed imitations of that effect look flat and stay the same colour from every angle. Foil stamping on genuine cards is applied to the surface and catches light independently of the printed layer.
Backs, registration and cut
Turn the card over. Colour tone, font weight and the exact position of the copyright line are consistent within a genuine set. Counterfeits are usually produced from a single scan, so backs are frequently slightly the wrong shade or misaligned relative to the front.
Cut quality matters too. Factory cuts are clean and square; hand-cut fakes show slight taper, fuzzy edges or corners that are not identical.
Serial numbers and autographs
Numbered cards are stamped or printed to a specification. A serial number in the wrong font, the wrong position, or above the stated print run is decisive. On autographs, check whether the set uses on-card or sticker signatures, and compare the signature against known genuine examples from the same release.
Fake slabs
Counterfeit holders exist. Type the certificate number into the grading company's own lookup and compare every field, including the card, set, year and grade. Some graders also publish the front image; a mismatch there is conclusive.
Physical checks on the holder help: label print quality, hologram behaviour, the sound and weight of the case, and whether the seams look factory-sealed rather than glued.
Common questions
Which cards are faked most often?
High-value rookies, iconic vintage cards and expensive autographs — anywhere the reward justifies the effort. Cheap base cards are rarely worth counterfeiting.
Is buying graded always safe?
Safer, not certain. Verify the certificate number independently before paying rather than trusting the photograph of the label.
What should a buyer do if they suspect a fake?
Do not modify the card. Raise it through the marketplace's dispute process with clear photographs, and keep all packaging and correspondence.